View Full Version : How to maks a racing stripes...
bcane98
10-28-2006, 09:10 AM
OK.. I am lost on this one... You would think making 2 racing stripes over the top of a viper would be easy right... Not for me apparently!!!
What is the best way to mask racing stripes (straight line) over the top of a Viper (or any car)? I am either too much to the left or right on one stripe or the other. Or I am not lining up properly on the rear end in reference to the front end or one side of the grill compared to the other...
HELP!!!! :D
zormar0
10-28-2006, 10:33 AM
i would say to use a ruler and tape... and how much you sellin that pirate for???
bcane98
10-28-2006, 10:59 AM
How do I make the ruler bend around the curves of the Viper?
The Pirate is the chassis, sevo's, 2 speed, and such.... add tires, motor and elec's and it's ready to roll... $60 shipped and it's yours... I can e-mail pics later if needed...
zormar0
10-28-2006, 11:02 AM
kk well yea email me some pics of the truck when you have time and ill explain the ruler thing...
team3six
10-28-2006, 11:27 AM
This is the easiest ways to do this. I figure you must me using an internal mask and are doing a basic 2 coat paint job. Get yourself the flat mask like from XXXmain. and take out your ruler and draw your stripes. if you are making rounded edges say at the front of the car on the hood. use a credit card corner for your rounded edges. Then take out your exacto knife and cut it out. place the stripes inside where you want and make sure that all airbubles along the edge have been faned out and the mask has nowhere for bleeding to get in. Paint and your done. If using liqued mask. Do the same and this time place the mask ontop of the body. with a fine tip sharpie, draw out your pinstripe on the top and remove mask. then go inside and slowly and carefully take your time cutting to get a nice sharp design and again paint.
davecnitrors4
10-28-2006, 01:42 PM
Great Planes has a red masking tape that is flexible plastic. I use that to mask the outside of the body until the lines are straight, then liquid mask the inside and use the red tape to guide my cuts inside. You can lay the tape on the onside much easier than on the inside.
bcane98
10-28-2006, 01:52 PM
kk well yea email me some pics of the truck when you have time and ill explain the ruler thing...
Need your e-mail address... I will shoot you those pics tomorrow...
zormar0
10-28-2006, 10:00 PM
ok i sent you my email on a privite message... :)
bcane98
10-29-2006, 12:47 AM
So I guess the days of using masking tape for masking off the area are gone... doesn't that figure. As you can see I am getting back into the painting portion of the hobby now :D
OK, so I have to order some liquid mask... Thanks for all your help...
davecnitrors4
10-29-2006, 08:39 AM
Tape isn't dead...it's just that liquid mask film doesn't bleed under like some tapes. It's so much easier to trim out liquid mask versus tape, especially on irregular surfaces.
For quick stuff, and predesigned masks, tape can still work fine!
mxpunk259
10-30-2006, 07:20 PM
hey some people use leveling lasers.......
davecnitrors4
10-31-2006, 06:58 AM
I have seen that also. In a magazine, I think. Never tried it.
bcane98
10-31-2006, 01:17 PM
Well I started painting as I had some painters masking tape already in place... Not bad for my first shoot. I used a small bottle in one shot, so I think next time I will thin it out a little more. Supposedly it was prethinned, but actually it was still thick... Testors paint is what I used. I will post some pics when I am done. I definitely like the airbrush more than the old spray can... I have a EBay special right now, but I think I will be asking for a nice brush for Xmas... any suggestions.
davecnitrors4
10-31-2006, 02:53 PM
Iwata Revolution CR. About $65 online or $90 in a retail store/hobby shop. Great qulaity tool.
For shooting solid colors you don't really need to thin it if you can get the air pressure high enough to get good flow. For finer detail work, fades, and shadows, thinning is a must.
team3six
10-31-2006, 04:56 PM
That richpen 113c that TK suggested I get was awsome. I can get the finest little lines and the thickest bold depth I have ever seen before. and it is so easy to control and clean. I purchased a 100 PSI compressor on ebay. And believe it or not it works really great. It is the exact same design as the iwata only red and chrome. So I am pretty happy so far. The Richpen 113c is about $120-140.00 price range but I picked mine up on ebay for I think it was $78.00 and it was un-used. Guess I got lucky. here is the airbrush link so you can what it looks like
http://www.bearair.com/prodinfo.asp?number=100301
Pyromike also suggested these airbrush's to me when I was looking , which I have heard that both are very good as well
http://www.bearair.com/prodinfo.asp?number=100320
http://www.bearair.com/prodinfo.asp?number=100348
I think the GREX is gonna be a secondary airbrush for me
This is the compressor I got and it comes with everything you need
http://cgi.ebay.com/1-5-HP-AIRBRUSH-MINI-AIR-BRUSH-COMPRESSOR-PAINTING-ART_W0QQitemZ250027739155QQihZ015QQcategoryZ28111QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
Hope that helps and Hey I highly advise you to check out CFX.
davecnitrors4 is the new Fester there and we all get to learn from his experiances. Lol.
PyroMike
10-31-2006, 08:17 PM
I use this brush Peak C5 (http://www.bearair.com/prodinfo.asp?number=100320) (It looks as though it is made by Rich Pen, it also uses the same needle). The other brush I use is a Paasche VL (I use it for backing coats). I would recommend you get a gravity feed brush as they are very easy to clean (I would know as I have a gravity feed and siphon feed brush), and they spray very smoothly.
:)
bcane98
11-01-2006, 09:32 AM
Thanks guys... I am working my Xmas list as we speak.
What is a good color to back Blue with White stripes... I wanted it to be a little on the electric side, but I think that is more the paint than anything... I thinking black for backing...
PyroMike
11-01-2006, 09:38 AM
Thanks guys... I am working my Xmas list as we speak.
What is a good color to back Blue with White stripes... I wanted it to be a little on the electric side, but I think that is more the paint than anything... I thinking black for backing...
Don't back white with black. If you want the blue to pop then just back it with the white. You should spray the dark color first (i.e. bule), then the light color (i.e. white). I mostly back all my colors with white or sliver.
davecnitrors4
11-01-2006, 10:03 AM
Silver or white to brighten the blue. Use a faslucent or pearl blue if you want it light and bright. You could always use a very little bit of pearl white before you shoot the blue, and it will give it more highlights and depth.
If you wanted a darker "blurple" effect you can back transparent blues or purple with black. It will look mostly black, but will have highlights of color in the sun. You don't use very much color before the black in that method.
Then paint your white stripes last.
bcane98
11-01-2006, 11:02 AM
OK... My frustration just went through the roof (LMAO)... I went to go shoot the stripes (sorry jumped the gun) and I don't have any white. I assumed (yes I know) I did. Well I am gonna make an order for paint now. I was skimming the forums and someone was talking about creatix (I think), I can't really remember, I can't find the thread either, but it discussed how one was just repackaged paint from the other complany. So, what is a good paint to get? :o
EDIT: I think one of the paints was Pactra...
PyroMike
11-01-2006, 12:48 PM
To keep the white white, back it with sliver then with white agian, and you should be safe to shoot the blue. ;)
Fascolor and Createx is what I use. You can find Createx at most craft stores, and you can get a huge 8 oz bottle of white and black. Some people also use Auto Air which is similar to Createx.
Here is link to Createx (http://www.createxcolors.com/)
I use water based paint because it is easy to clean up, and Parma and Createx are premixed to spray right out of the bottle (But I still thin it down anyways).
Pactra is ok but you really have to thin the paint to get it to spray right. You also have Spaz Stix paints. They are really good but they are lacquer based (not good for in your house)
team3six
11-01-2006, 05:07 PM
It takes alot of practice to get it down. You shall soon learn that to be a jedi painter, you must make mistakes. and I have made alot.lol. Createx and faskolor is my favorite. and it gets better because you can mix both of them together to get some crazy colors. Ohh, and make sure you purchase a cleaner pot as well. it is highly worth it and makes a great place to hold your airbrush as you are trying to find another hand. and for chrome. I found that Spaz stix chrome in a can or alcalde chrome is the best. (Did I spell that right?) It takers alot of coats to dust chrome, but it looks tight when it is on. and buy the big bottle of liqued mask. I use the parma stuff. but there are other great liqued masks to use. well buy the big bottle if you are gonna do more than one body. 2 small bottles should do a whole single car just fine. use 3 or 4 coats and allow to thoughroly dry between coats. getting a wet spot that is under dried skin sucks to clean up. and if you miss it all in the clean up it shows up in your paint when you lay it down on the body. Here is my latest work and that took me forever. Mike and Dave have done some sweet bodies, I think they have a bit more experiance than me.
http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e276/storm_in027/next2004.jpg
PyroMike
11-01-2006, 07:35 PM
This body was done with mostly Createx and some Parma paints.
http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l237/pyro_evil3/100_0122.jpg
davecnitrors4
11-02-2006, 09:34 AM
OK, now I am confuzzled as well!!!
Createx that you buy at Hobby Lobby or Michaels...very inexpensive compared to Faskolor. Will it bond to lexan, or will it lift?
I may have to just try it out and see?
PyroMike
11-02-2006, 10:49 AM
OK, now I am confuzzled as well!!!
Createx that you buy at Hobby Lobby or Michaels...very inexpensive compared to Faskolor. Will it bond to lexan, or will it lift?
I may have to just try it out and see?
Yes it works great as long as you get the airbrush (http://www.createxcolors.com/airbrush.htm) paints (stay away from the Monotype as they will lift off with water (so you can transfer your painting to paper from glass). Also heat set the paint to help it stick (for both Faskolor and Createx)
I learned that I could use it from Charlie B. and a few of the other pros over at CFX. (Faskolor and Createx is basically the same thing).
:)
xacdesigns
11-02-2006, 11:10 AM
yep, what Mike said! I always use a hair dryer in between coats and colors to heat set it. Once the body is all done, I put it in the bag it came in and let it cook in the car for a day while I'm at work. EDIT: Not in direct sunlight!!! <-Saw that somewhere on CFX but can't remember who mentioned it, but it works GOOD!
I've found out the hard way that if I had to strip the paint off a car body, the metallic silver auto air paint tends to not want to come off the body after being heat set. Haven't had that problem stripping other paints, just that one. :confused:
davecnitrors4
11-02-2006, 11:22 AM
Thanks for complete story. I'm off to Michaels with the next coupon I clip!!!
I'm thinking turquoise and flamingo pink, with gold pins, and a hint of Maui blue!!! :rolleyes:
bcane98
11-10-2006, 01:49 PM
Well finished it... Gonna use the liquid mask next time. I was so in a rush to put the paint on I went with the painters masking tape... So I know I have some booboo's, but I definitely love airbrushing...
http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j75/bcane98/SC/Viper_GTSR_6.jpg
http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j75/bcane98/SC/Viper_GTSR_5.jpg
http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j75/bcane98/SC/Viper_GTSR_4.jpg
http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j75/bcane98/SC/Viper_GTSR_3.jpg
bcane98
11-10-2006, 01:51 PM
Continued... I need to get me some 31mm wheels on the back though... New tires are next :D
http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j75/bcane98/SC/Viper_GTSR_2.jpg
http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j75/bcane98/SC/Viper_GTSR_1.jpg
Here's my beast too... I did not paint that body though...
http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j75/bcane98/SC/Savvy_vs_SavvyXXL_3.jpg
davecnitrors4
11-10-2006, 02:04 PM
I wanna see you get that EZ Start on thru the back window!!
Colors look good. Painters tape is good if you really get in there and press down the edges with a burnishing tool, or a smooth rounded piece of plastic. Then you won't get the bleed-under. For long straight lines, I'll take tape over LMF any day.
Is that a 3.3 in there, or the 2.5?
bcane98
11-10-2006, 02:12 PM
LMAO... I was thinking about that the other day, but it wasn't a big deal as I always start the cars with body off anyway. If the connector was just a little bit longer...
It's a 2.5... Very fast for that little car... sometimes too much power if you ask me... I can't imagine a 3.3 in it... WAY TOO MUCH for that little car :D
davecnitrors4
11-10-2006, 02:19 PM
Relocate the EZ connector so it faces out the bottom of the car, but now such that it will get whacked by a rock. Then you can just put the car on it's nose and start it. Or get a starter box!!!
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